In Kyoto, Higashi-hongan-ji was undergoing renovation. Undaunted, we headed down the street to Nishi-hongan-ji, which was also under wraps for restoration work. Down but not out, we decided to poke around anyway, to see what we could see.

It didn't take long to come across a tourist information booth handing out pamphlets and such. Three Japanese people were chatting there with a Buddhist priest. I thought it was a little strange that they all had English pamphlets and said as much, which got a conversation started. We were all surprised to find that the priest was also from Kochi Prefecture, down Muroto way. And that one of the girls in the group would soon be leaving for Canada to study English. What a coincidence! It was enough for an invitation to a private tour of the temple, a UNESCO world heritage site and head temple of the True Pure Land sect of Buddhism, with 12 million followers worldwide.

We were led into an unassuming office. From there we walked through a plywood corridor and finally into the temple corridors. The first room we entered featured ink-paintings of bamboo and tigers. Well faded from 400 years of exposure to the elements, our guide-priest thought nothing of letting us touch the paintings to get a better feel for the craftsmanship. From there we came across one of the first noh stages constructed in Japan, a building with near magical accoustics. I could almost imagine the shogun clapping in approval.

Inside the temple, we passed through room after room of 400 year old ink paintings done on gold foil. I recognized most of them from school textbooks. Our guide-priest pulled back tourist barriers and let and us wander freely throught the rooms, even allowed flash photography. Just as we were getting overloaded from golden shadow, we were led into a corridor where our guide pulled back a sliding screen door to reveal the most beautiful garden.

Outside, the carp pool had been drained for cleaning. Our guide pointed out a boat laying in the muck, said it was used by the priests to get from one building to the next. He then led us into yet another building, this one featuring the shogun's tearoom, the ceiling and doorway set lower than usual to prevent any swordfights from breaking out. The kicker was when we were told we were the first Canadians to ever be inside that room and that not even if the Prime Minister himself could book a visit.

After, we posed for a group photo and to have a chat. On our way out, we were given tea to sip on. Leaving the temple grounds, none of us could believe what had just happened! I still can't!